Learn to surf in North County
Optimize the summer experience
By Mallane Dressel
Beach, sun, and surf exemplify the perfect summer, and one of the best ways to enjoy these features is by flowing with one of nature’s greatest wonders in the act of surfing. The benefits are endless for the person who embarks on this great adventure of learning how to surf.
Personal health should be important to everybody, and there is no greater way to get into shape than by doing an athletic activity that is more fun than work. MSNBC recently reported on how surfing is not only meditative, but great for the body as well, by presenting the notion that “dedicated surfers accidentally build physiques that health-club acolytes would trade their memberships for.” Also appearing in the report was Dr. Mark Renneker, a renowned big-wave rider in San Francisco who recommends surfing to his non-surfing patients who suffer from high blood pressure, repetitive strain injuries, and chemical addictions.
Long time surfers are known to refer to surfing’s other healing properties, such as expressed in this testimonial of a local surfer, “It [puts] you one with nature, clears your soul of bad vibes, and can make you more humble.” For whatever the reason surfing seems appealing, the experience may even create more reasons to be drawn to it, such as the “stoke” of surfing, an indescribable feeling that consumes surfers, causing them to always want more time in the water.
A crash course in surfing is best done through instruction, and due west of San Marcos there happen to be two camps that teach children as well as adults for a decent price. Gerry Kantor, surfing since the 60s in the San Diego area, heads Leucadia Surf. His business is very reputable since he requires that all instructors have several water safety certifications, be avid long time surfers, and either be a college graduate or a current college student. The instructors are also thoroughly trained and given specific written guidelines for instruction.
Leucadia Surf’s set up is on Moonlight Beach, which they boast as having “[some] of the best beginner waves in San Diego.” Depending on if the participant wants one on one instruction or group, the cost can range from $60 to $120 for a two-hour session. The lesson also includes the use of a board and wetsuit.
Another surf camp located close by is So Cal Surf Lessons, conducted at North Carlsbad State Beach, Frazee. Rusty Friesen, a pro surfer, established this instructional surf business, which follows similar guidelines as Leucadia Surf, in the summer of 2004. They are a little cheaper, providing lessons in the $55 to $95 range, including a free hour of board rental for students after their lesson.
If a beginner would rather take on surfing on their own, they can also rent boards for $8 an hour or $30 for a day, and wetsuits for $5 an hour or $20 a day from the establishment, So Cal Surf Lessons. The surf shop, Progression Surf, located on the coast highway in Leucadia rents out soft boards at $20 a day, and $40 for a hard board for the day. The only complication may be transporting it to the beach.
If beginners try to brave this sport on their own, they should acquire a longboard because it will be easier to stand up on, obtain a few helpful tips, and have the ability to swim well. It sounds funny, but the best way to learn to pop up on the board is by practicing on the beach. Put the board on the sand, and then lay on it. Next, place the hands on the board underneath your shoulders as if doing a push up, then push up, and slip the feet separated onto the middle of the board, in a semi-crouched, and sideways stance.
Once the pop-up is perfected the next big feat is to make it out to the waves. The perfect paddling power comes from correct balance on the board, and alternating arms rapidly. Getting through the waves can be challenging, but the more momentum obtained in paddling, the more successful the participant will be in getting past the breakers. On a long board, the most efficient way to pass the waves is to turtle the board. To turtle the board, the individual must flip themselves and the board while firmly gripping the board.
When the wave passes they should resume paddling until they reach the area right after where the waves are breaking, and then sit on the board in order to have better maneuverability for catching waves. The easiest way to get up on a wave for beginners is by riding the white wash, which is where the wave as already broken. This allows for more stability, and less pearling, which is when the nose of the board digs into the water. When an agreeable wave appears on the horizon, they should orient themselves to be facing the shore, and then paddle until they feel the wave pushing them before they do the practiced pop-up. If all goes well they should be riding in no time.
This may seem like a taxing process, but once that first wave is caught the pay out is huge. A beginner can easily become hooked on their first ride, making them want to come back and enjoy the beach in their newly discovered way more often than ever. Surfing can cause that new hooked person to not only want to have more fun at the beach more often, but can also help them develop a healthy body and mind.
